![]() ![]() Forget platinum-it sounds sexy, but is about 20 th down the conductivity list.Ĭopper wire with gold connectors are the best combination but again, don’t listen to the boutique audio sales propaganda. It’s quite good, better than nickel or chrome, but actually a bit worse than silver and copper. Gold is used on connectors because it doesn’t oxidize, not because it’s the best conductor of electricity. A common misconception is that the more expensive the metal, the better the cable. Electromagnetic induction it’s a blessing, it’s a curse (if you don’t know about it).Īs to the quality of cables: A poorly made cable can cause noise issues, but there’s no real advantage to spending a fortune on them. The other rule for wires is not looping antenna signal cables (twin-lead), which tends to induce the same noise by making them antennas themselves. Kill HDMI noise with a $10 Monoprice cable with a ferrite bead But just to be safe, try to keep your AC cords isolated. Speaker cables have far stronger signals traveling along them, so they shouldn’t be as affected by RFI. Note that I’ve seen much cheaper on Amazon, but not from a known vendor, so I can’t vouch for them. It’s about $500, but you can easily get away with a lower wattage (500 or 250) model for less than $250. Tripplite sent me one of these as well: the excellent 1000-watt IS1000HG (Hospital Grade) with four outlets. Slightly cheaper than an online UPS, but absolutely effective against all kinds of line noise is an isolation transformer. If you’re not worried about defeating ground-loop noise, you can get away for not much more than $100 with a UPS that advertises pure sine wave output. It’s also much less-expensive than one of those high-end power conditioners you see marketed to gullible audiophiles. It costs several hundred dollars less, but doesn’t provide battery backup power.Ĭondition your power with the Tripp Lite IS1000HG isolation transformer The Tripp Lite IS1000HG isolation transformer I mentioned earlier will also clean up AC line noise. ![]() But darn if it isn’t 100 percent effective at providing protection against power surges and outages. It’s also heavy, about the size of a small dehumidifier, and it has some features (such as USB monitoring, so that it can gracefully shut down an attached computer in the event of a power failure) that have nothing to do with noise elimination. That device was selling for nearly $900 when I updated this article. Tripp Lite sent me its model SU1000XLCD UPS to clean up the super-dirty AC in my apartment. Line interactive UPSes are more expensive than the standby alternative, which keep switch to battery power on demand. You will need a isolator for either one of those power wires or both.This type of ground loop isolator, for coaxial cables used with over-the-air antennas and cable- and satellite-TV equipment, can eliminate both visual and audible noise. If you get the whining noise with no music playing, then it might be your acc or constant power that is powering your stereo deck. Those are the symtoms if you need one of these. Some aux devices will cause the noise and some will not. ![]() If there is no sound playing music without the aux. if you speakers make the whining noise when something is plugged i to the aux, this will solve your problem. So you dont have to worry about it disconnecting if you are moving it around. The aux plugs firmly and snaps into the noise isolator. The noise isolator is built pretty solid. As soon as i plugged this in, the noise stopped. It was giving me a whining noise through the speakers. Everything else i use with the aux is fine except the bluetooth adaptor i bought. I was getti g noise from a bluetooth adaptor that plugs into my stereo deck. ![]()
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